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Tua Pittman rides the tiller with stern command. As one of the few contemporary Master Navigators trained in the ancient ways of sailing by stars, moon, ocean currents and migrating birds, on this short voyage from Rarotonga towards Aitutaki, Pittman is recreating a past almost forgot to modern travellers. The Marumaru Atua is a double-hulled catamaran of about fifteen metres length. It sports three russet coloured lateen sails decorated with ancient Polynesian motifs.

There is no keel. A small rattan roofed galley with enough space for two adults sits amidships. A single toilet with door is positioned in front of the galley facing the bow. A bucket with rope attached is the flushing mechanism.

The remainder of the deck is open to the elements with two storage compartments that also serve as bench seats. Each hull has enough space for eight bunk beds, sixteen altogether for both crew and passengers. They navigated mostly by the stars, a permanent planetarium seemingly embedded in their brains.

These ingenious explorers migrated across huge expanses of uncharted waters without printed maps to guide them. Rarotonga is basically Cook Islands central. Approximately 12, people live on Rarotonga while approximately 1, more call Aitutaki home.

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Rarotonga is a large volcanic island with peaks rising to over metres in its densely forested centre. A double lane road of thirty-two kilometres circles the island. There is no cross-island road as the interior is too steep and rugged.

A public bus runs two services, clockwise and anti-clockwise each thirty minutes. Passengers are picked up and dropped off wherever they choose to stop, sometimes only ten metres from one stop to the next. The night bus service runs clockwise only but not on Sundays. Hire car companies operate reliable services, renting small vehicles Daihatsu mini convertibles are popular and scooters to qualified drivers.

Bicycles are very popular transport options as well. At Nikao and Arorangi on the northwest side more lovely beaches stretch along the lagoon. Aitutaki is much smaller, approximately seven kilometres long by three wide. A remnant of an extinct volcano, Maungapu, is the highest point at metres. Eleven churches operate on Aitutaki. Considering the population is fewer than 1, people, an impressive per capita ratio of proselytising opportunities abound. My job while on this trip to the Cook Islands was to explore what else there is to do other than get married, honeymoon or lash out on an expensive retirement trip.

Sailing, singing and going to church in the cook islands

I list them in no particular order of importance. Tua chauffeurs guests around the island while pointing out important stars, explaining skills and relating Polynesian history. Inquiries and bookings can be made at [ protected].

Replete with song and laughter, fire and brimstone, this was old time religion Cook Islands style. We enjoyed the company of our guide, Mr Useless many Cook Islanders are best known by their nicknames. Mr Useless was anything but useless though he was occasionally a bit grumpy and difficult to understand, not because of a lack of English but because an absence of teeth often turned his words into unintelligible mumbles.

A Raro Safari tour is a fun day out following a somewhat random itinerary. Ask a lot of questions, show keen interest and the tour will certainly evolve into a very educational experience. See www.

I was dead wrong about that assumption. The captains taught us how to climb a coconut palm, how to husk a coconut, how to differentiate coconuts according to maturity, usefulness and flavour, how to plait palm fronds to make a hat or plate and how to play a ukulele.

These guys could show a seasoned Vegas troupe a thing or three about how to maintain performance enthusiasm. Like mixed crafts and produce markets the world over, a visit to this lively site is obligatory for all curious visitors who are intent on gaining insight into what makes the Cook Islands tick.

Top stalls are: Farm Direct Pearls for some of the best and most reputable deals on locally raised black pearls, Rito Cold Pressed Coconut Oil Products for edible flavoured oils, health and beauty products, Tokerau Jim for hand-crafted art objects and jewellery and KMD Ukuleles for its range of expertly made ukuleles from native woods. Of course numerous stalls selling fresh juices, fruit smoothies, icy frappes andhealthy or not small meals and snacks are everywhere. Take your pick and lash out on the simple fare.

Minar Purotu Henderson outside her Island Living shop. A visit to Island Living store is highly recommended.

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Owned and run by Minar Purotu Henderson, this little shop is a gem which sells locally made and deed fabrics and crafts. As a cure-all for everything from gout to cancer, the benefits of noni juice are highly regarded by all Cook Islanders. Henderson also runs the ading Plantation House restaurant which serves a set menu dinner for about twelve guests once a week, usually on Wednesday evenings. A Nature Walk with Pa is a unique treat.

Pa also explains the benefits of indigenous plants as curatives and life preservers during his trek. The sunset cultural tour and show at the Highland Paradise Cook Islands Cultural Centre held two or three times per week is a mixed bag of treats.

The marae on the mountain is clearly an important historical site and the talk about it and its ificance to Rarotongan culture is really interesting. While emcee Danny, dressed in full Cook Islands chiefly regalia, instructed guests not to cross the boundary to the marae unless invited, a woman accidentally crossed the line into the marae.

Within seconds, a very large coconut nearly conked the man standing next to her on his head. Had it struck, he would surely have died. A marae can be a powerfully spooky place. Her story is a fascinating one.

Sailing, singing and going to church in the Cook Islands. Marumaru Atua vaka sails up. Marumaru main sail catches the breeze.

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Sunday morning at Arorangi Church. Titikaveka Beach. Aitutaki Lagoon. Captain Jack Spry. Danny at Highland Paradise Cultural Centre.

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